Friday, May 01, 2009

 

Watermelon Tamales


This is long overdue. I've been thinking about this post at least once a week since mid February when we went on a Guatemalan adventure. We had a four day weekend for President's Day, found a great deal on a flight and hotel, and headed out late Thursday night to Guatemala City. Our final destination was Antigua, a beautiful Spanish colonial city. This is a great place to learn Spanish because of it's many language schools that are reasonable in price or take a cooking class. Yoga studios are also opening up, so Antigua is a great place for a little retreat. Besides that, it is a place of tremendous beauty and history.


We took the red eye Thursday evening and arrived in a land of volcanoes very early on Friday.


We drove to our hotel in Antigua, unloaded our bags and napped before exploring the city.

We walked into the heart of Antigua, Parque Central. Ruins greeted us on every street along the way.




We spent the first day orienting ourselves with the city. Here we are in Parque Central where Jacaranda trees enclose the park.








Later in the afternoon, we went to a yoga class arranged by one of the 13 people that was on the trip.

We had dinner at Frida's which is quite famous for their delicious margaritas.


The following day, we had hoped to hike to Pacaya Volcano, but because we hadn't arranged it in advance, we got up really early to see if we could get a ride there. Luckily we found a group that was headed that way, and although we had to pay a little more, about $9 each, we tagged along and headed back toward Guatemala City. I knew that we would have to go up hill, but I had no idea that it was up hill the WHOLE WAY. I was about a month into my diet and exercise routine and not in the shape necessary. I was walking so slow, that the 6 year old on horseback kept saying, "Taxi, lady." I didn't want to be the lazy American so I refused. Everyone else in our group was European and totally fit. In fact, the 60 year old Italian even smoked on the way up and had no problems. All the walking they have to do in Europe really puts them at an advantage. I, on the other hand, was breathing hard, sweating and wanting to cry when our guide asked me to hurry.





"Taxi, lady!"

This was my quitting point.

Looking up toward Ben and the Euro hikers.

Ben looks like he is on the moon!

The Volcano!!!






While he checked out the lava up close, I enjoyed the horses.





When we returned, we continued our walk through Antigua.


We checked out one of Antigua's famous sites, the Arco de Santa Catalina. This is the only remaining structure from the Convent of St. Catherine which was founded in 1613 and had only 4 nuns at the time. With the number of nuns increasing, they were forced to expand across the street. Building the yellow arch in 1693 allowed the nuns to cross from the original building to its addition without being seen.






Walking below the arch, we were lead to the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de La Merced.

Later, Ben and I had a typical Guatemalan lunch on the second floor of an old colonial building.

After more exploring, we ended the evening at a restaurant with my friend Kari and her daughter Megan.

Ben ordered a large beer, but we had no idea what that meant.


Kari wanted to try some Gallo, so in my wonderful Spanish I asked the waiter to bring another box, so Kari could sample it. Megan informed me later that the word for cup is taza (and not caja = box). Ah, the joys of being a tourist in a Spanish speaking town.

Our last full day in Guatemala was an adventure as well. We took a van to the Guatemalan highlands to a town called Chichicastenango. Most days, it is a sleepy town. On Thursdays and Sundays, however, it hosts Central America's largest market. Row after row of stalls selling handmade items, food, animals, etc.,. cover every inch of walking space. It was unbelievable! Ben and I made our way through the maze and bought some beautiful things!

You could buy just about anything there.








Including plenty of dead things and living things. It was crazy!!!




As you weave through the stalls, you can eventually end up on the steps of the Iglesia de Santo Tomas that is busy with worshippers all day. The church itself dates back to 1540 and was built on a Mayan Temple. Mayan ceremonies are still practiced alongside Catholicism. It is an incredible sight to see.

Flowers can be purchased on the church steps.



A man waving incense which has darkened the once white steps.


We visited Hotel Santo Tomas which is built in the Spanish style around a central courtyard filled with colorful parrots.


The town's cemetery.
When we returned to Antigua after the long drive from Chichi, we met up with Kari and Megan once again to explore Antigua. We weren't sure where we were going and ended up at the Monasterio San Francisco. Guatemala is very proud of their own saint, Pedro de San Jose Betancur. Born in the Canary Islands in 1626, he came to Central America when he was 31. He became a very familiar sight on Antigua's streets, ringing a bell and collecting money for the poor and homeless. Unfortunately, he was unable to pass the necessary tests to be ordained as a priest. His many good works, however, led many to call him the "St. Francis of the Americas". He is often credited with originating the custom of posada, which is the procession seen throughout Latin America before Christmas in which people reenact Mary and Joseph's search for a room for the night. Pope John Paul II canonized Pedro in 2002 and his tomb at the monastery is a revered landmark. Many miracles are attributed to Pedro and the people of Guatemala believe that a prayer and tap on the casket will send you help.





I didn't ask San Pedro for help that day, only hoped to return to Guatemala again.

Early the following morning we headed back to the airport in Guatemala City and boarded the plane for a short flight home.







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